The short version
- If your roof has under ~10 years left, re-roof first.
- Removing and reinstalling an array later typically costs $3,000–$6,000 and buys you nothing.
- Tile, slate and metal all install differently — and price differently.
- A good installer raises this unprompted. One who doesn’t is worth a second look.
Match the two lifespans
A solar array is a 25-year fixture bolted to a covering that has its own lifespan. Get the sequence wrong and you pay twice.
| Roof covering | Typical lifespan | Solar install notes |
|---|---|---|
| 3-tab asphalt shingle | 15–20 years | Cheapest and simplest to mount on |
| Architectural shingle | 25–30 years | Straightforward; the common best case |
| Standing-seam metal | 40–70 years | Clamp-on mounts, no penetrations — often the easiest of all |
| Concrete or clay tile | 50+ years | Tiles must be removed and replaced around mounts; adds labour |
| Slate | 75+ years | Brittle and specialist; some installers decline outright |
| Wood shake | 20–30 years | Fire code and mounting complications; often discouraged |
The decision, in one rule
Under about ten years of remaining life: re-roof first. Over fifteen: proceed. In between, get a roofer — not the solar salesperson — to assess it, and weigh the cost of re-roofing now against removal and reinstallation later.
That later cost is the whole argument. Taking an array off and putting it back typically runs $3,000–$6,000 depending on system size, and produces nothing: no extra generation, no extra warranty, no improvement to the house. It is pure avoidable expense.
How to assess yours
- Age. Find the permit or the previous owner's paperwork. If nobody knows, assume older than you'd like.
- Granule loss. Asphalt granules in the gutters mean the covering is wearing through.
- Curling, cupping or missing shingles. Visible from the ground with binoculars.
- Any history of leaks. Existing leaks get harder to trace and fix under an array.
- Decking condition. Soft spots or sag mean structural work, not just a new covering.
A roofing inspection costs a few hundred dollars and is independent of anyone selling you panels. On a decision this size, that is cheap.
Doing both at once
If the roof needs replacing anyway, doing both together is efficient: one set of scaffolding, one project, one crew coordinating around the other. Some installers offer both, or partner with a roofer.
Two cautions. First, get the roof priced separately so you can see what you're paying for each part. Second, a roof replacement is generally not eligible for solar incentives simply because it happened at the same time — see the tax credit guide. Anyone implying otherwise is either mistaken or selling.
Penetrations, leaks and who fixes them
Most residential mounts penetrate the roof. Done properly — flashed and sealed correctly — this is routine and does not cause leaks. Done badly, it is the most common source of solar-related roof damage.
Two questions worth asking:
- "What's your workmanship warranty on roof penetrations, and how long?" This is the warranty that matters here, and its length varies enormously between installers — see what solar warranties actually cover.
- "If my roof leaks near a mount in year five, who pays?" Get the answer before you need it. Roofers and solar installers can both disclaim responsibility if the paperwork allows.